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Why don't yall 2TC?

NorthFourty said:
I did a video some time back where I was describing how I adapted the way Scott Adkins climbs to suit me. The attachments to the tree can be seen below in the stills.

In one of the photos I'm showing 2 autoblocks (13" Hollowblocks) and in another an autoblock and VT prusik (28" Ice Tail). I had been using a VT made from 6mm TRC when the main line was 8mm Oplux. Currently using 11mm WorkPro. There's 35' in the right pouch, (2lbs., 8,092 MBS). Can also SRT on it, but haven't had the need to.

https://saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?attachments/2tc-saddle-setup-2-jpg.46038/
https://saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?attachments/2tc-setup-2-autoblocks-2-jpg.46039/
https://saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?attachments/2tc-setup-vt-autoblock-2-jpg.46040/
https://saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?attachments/foot-loop-jpg.46068/

I rig on the ground and don't change anything at height. 35' of line feeds out of my right Sys hauler through a BD Guide ATC attached to the bridge and up to the tree as a tether. Above the ATC there is either a VT prusik (6mm TRC or 28" Ice Tail) or an autoblock (19" hollowblock). This serves the purpose of a standard prusik to adjust the distance to the tree, but maintains the full strength of the main line if the prusik fails. A prusik is usually the weakest link in a system. Below the ATC, and attached to my right lineman's loop, is a 13" hollowblock tied as a autoblock for back up and to keep slight tension on the ATC. I also climb with a left foot loop girth hitched to the tree, supper easy and fast. When the hunt is over all that's required to come down is to apply grip pressure to the hitches above and below the ATC. It's a controlled smooth descent and if you turn loose of either hitch the other will hold you where you're at, ie. to take your platform off. Once on the ground I temporarily take the line out of the ATC to feed it back into the right pouch and then reconnect the ATC for next time. Most of the time it never touches the ground and is nice in a swamp.

Click to expand...
Thanks for the Video. I want to try 2TC and I was confused as to why some are using a leg band and you are using your saddle. Your method seems easier and safer to me so I will try it first.
Any reason I cannot climb back down the way I went up?
Not sure if I want to try rappelling by learning from a video. Since rappelling adds weight, it takes away one advantage of 2TC.
Any suggestions, I am open.
 
I don't get the leg band either. I suppose it makes sense if you're trying to make big moves per evolution but I've never found a need. You can 2TC down a tree just fine. It is slower and more awkward similar to climbing up vs. down a ladder. Though I rappel and primarily climb SRT, I do use 2TC regularly to make those fine adjustments up/down, left/right as it's quicker and easier than switching back over to my climbing gear.
 
GeoFish said:
Thanks for the Video. I want to try 2TC and I was confused as to why some are using a leg band and you are using your saddle. Your method seems easier and safer to me so I will try it first.
Any reason I cannot climb back down the way I went up?
Not sure if I want to try rappelling by learning from a video. Since rappelling adds weight, it takes away one advantage of 2TC.
Any suggestions, I am open.
Click to expand...
Rappel rope really doesn't add any significant weight since you use it as your main tether.
I'd say try 2TC down.... lol IMO it's a completely unnecessary struggle. There is a video by wild apex outdoors if him climbing down and its so frustrating to watch.
You get an atc or a figure 8 and rappel off your porch, then 3 feet up a tree, then 6 feet, etc... I use just an fig 8 and my michoacan hitch to rappel, haven't had a scary moment yet.
I also dont use the leg band but bought it thinking I'd need it....after strengthening it it's now a very comfortable footloop!
 
Samcirrus said:
Rappel rope really doesn't add any significant weight since you use it as your main tether.
I'd say try 2TC down.... lol IMO it's a completely unnecessary struggle. There is a video by wild apex outdoors if him climbing down and its so frustrating to watch.
You get an atc or a figure 8 and rappel off your porch, then 3 feet up a tree, then 6 feet, etc... I use just an fig 8 and my michoacan hitch to rappel, haven't had a scary moment yet.
I also dont use the leg band but bought it thinking I'd need it....after strengthening it it's now a very comfortable footloop!
Click to expand...
I said an atc or fig 8 since they are cheap and easy to try rappelling with, I know you can spend big and get a MR safeguard or other alternative, but after a full season (almost) of 2TC and SRT my fig 8 goes on when I start and gets off when I'm on the ground...So it's been great, why should I spend more.
 
Samcirrus said:
I said an atc or fig 8 since they are cheap and easy to try rappelling with, I know you can spend big and get a MR safeguard or other alternative, but after a full season (almost) of 2TC and SRT my fig 8 goes on when I start and gets off when I'm on the ground...So it's been great, why should I spend more.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I am on YouTube now trying to find a video using a fig 8.
Is this what you are using?
Grivel Figure 8 – Eastern Woods Outdoors (doublesteps.com)
 
Thanks Guy's.
I have a 6MM eye to eye sling with a schwabisch hitch.
Assuming it is long enough can I use this above the fig 8?
 
GeoFish said:
Thanks Guy's.
I have a 6MM eye to eye sling with a schwabisch hitch.
Assuming it is long enough can I use this above the fig 8?
Click to expand...
No. To have a friction hitch above you'd need to use an ATC. Because of the carabiner clacking against the fig 8. So youd put it below the fig 8 and clip to linesman loop or second bridge. But make sure when its fully extended it can't reach the figure 8. Arrg I need to make my video of my whole system....
 
Samcirrus said:
No. To have a friction hitch above you'd need to use an ATC. Because of the carabiner clacking against the fig 8. So youd put it below the fig 8 and clip to linesman loop or second bridge. But make sure when its fully extended it can't reach the figure 8. Arrg I need to make my video of my whole system....
Click to expand...
Thanks, a video would be great. I searched youtube and seen a tree guy with a fig 8 and he had a prusik above. Maybe too many ways to do it? Also a list of all your component would be helpful, rope and such.
Sorry to be a pest, but will all the different videos it get a little confusing for a new guy.
 
Can put 8 below friction hitch if enough room in the hitch and even use the same biner. Put on lineman’s so you can safely open the tether carabiner, input 8 into system, lock biner, remove lineman’s.

But back to 2TC, i find it easy and much faster descending than ascending. I don’t usually rappel with 2TC as I don’t see much savings of time vs dealing with the pull down and rappel rope packing.


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GeoFish said:
Thanks, I am on YouTube now trying to find a video using a fig 8.
Is this what you are using?
Grivel Figure 8 – Eastern Woods Outdoors (doublesteps.com)
Click to expand...

DO NOT BUY the Grivel Figure Eight!!


Check out this weirdo...

Figure of 8 progress capture???

Any of yins guys heard of doing this? I never have. I’ve been doing it for over a month. I think I invented it? It’s legit. It works great! I saw Nice Guy Dave from Wesspur do sumthin’ like this but my way is waayyy easier... Just rig yourself up to descend, then take your tag end and wrap...
saddlehunter.com
 
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Red Beard said:
As far as rigidity, I cut some flexible hose and put it over my rope in two places when I was using a thicker rope.
Click to expand...
Oh man, that’s genius. I’ll get around to 2TC this spring, but as I’ve said, I love 1 sticking but I can’t stand moving that tether up. So the idea of have two tethers to move up makes me ill. It didn’t escape my attention in Atkin’s video that he was using that ginormous plastic looking rope. It was obvious that it made it easier to advance the tether. That flex tube might just make it feasible. I may even grab a piece to add to my existing one stick setup. Ever used even bigger tubing? I actually think the bigger, the better as it would be easier to grab onto and move back and forth on the tether. Thanks for that!
 
2Sloe said:
Ever used even bigger tubing? I actually think the bigger, the better as it would be easier to grab onto and move back and forth on the tether. Thanks for that!
Click to expand...
I found that the sections of tubing prohibited me from crumbling up the rope for easy stowage. TATs (Tether Assist Tools) from Genesis 3D are much easier to operate... and they pull double duty as bow/gear hangers!
 
Red Beard said:
I found that the sections of tubing prohibited me from crumbling up the rope for easy stowage. TATs (Tether Assist Tools) from Genesis 3D are much easier to operate... and they pull double duty as bow/gear hangers!
Click to expand...
I can see that. I’m going to try a couple of larger 4 inch sections and see how they work. I’ll check out the TATs too.
 
GeoFish said:
Thanks for the Video. I want to try 2TC and I was confused as to why some are using a leg band and you are using your saddle. Your method seems easier and safer to me so I will try it first.
Any reason I cannot climb back down the way I went up?
Not sure if I want to try rappelling by learning from a video. Since rappelling adds weight, it takes away one advantage of 2TC.
Any suggestions, I am open.
Click to expand...

It's even easier/quicker coming down 2TC, but try to make the moves about the same as you went up. The very first time I climbed 2TC I added carabiners at the girth hitches and went around 4 limbs. It really isn't hard. You always have the option of just sitting in the saddle to rest or take a shot. You can climb 20+" trees and 6" trees. The best trees are about the width of your chest, not shoulders. Avoid any rope that stretches. Always look to strengthen the weakest link in your system. For most folks it is a hitch from the tether to the saddle. The tether can run directly to your saddle through a biner/ATC or safeguard and be backed up by a autoblock tied to a lineman's loop. In time you'll wonder why your not rappelling. For me it's the only way to get down when I'm cold and stiff at the end of a hunt. There's always more, but I hope that helps.
 
Red Beard said:
I found that the sections of tubing prohibited me from crumbling up the rope for easy stowage. TATs (Tether Assist Tools) from Genesis 3D are much easier to operate... and they pull double duty as bow/gear hangers!
Click to expand...
I've found that a couple of the plastic niteize s biners work well as tether advancement handles

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I tried 2TC all last season, and I finally gave up and got an EWO ultimate 1-stick for this season. I loved the idea of no-sticking, but I frankly felt like an inchworm going up the tree. I’m 5’7”, and with two tethers, I was making like 6+ moves to get up to hunting height. With the one stick with sewn aiders, I can do it in 3, in about half as much time, AND have the scout platform to stand on once I get up there.

With 2TC, one move up can never exceed your height or reach. But if I place my stick as high as I can, the top step of my stick will be higher than the top of my reach, while the bottom sewn step is still easily accessible. I think 2TC probably works better for certain body types (tall, long arms, long quads). It’d be cool to see a race between two similar-sized people, one 1-sticking and one 2TC, to compare the height achieved with number of moves made in a certain timeframe.


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