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DIY Utilibridge

skyjacker

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2018
Messages
590
Location
Oklahoma
I worked with Amsteel a lot, but using it as a prussic is new territory for me and I think most people. I’m messing around with different configurations, but I think we all need to very cautious before we take any of this airborne. There just isn’t a ton of info out there about using Amsteel on Amsteel like this. I’m glad a Tethrd did some testing, but that also worry that someone who has very little experience with saddles and/or splicing is going to make a catastrophic mistake.
Please guys, test this stuff on the ground and if you have any doubt, post your strategy on here and get some feedback.
Or even better, wait for Greg to make his DIY video. He could have put some magic trick on the splice that we have all overlooked.
I agree with this. I've worked with Amsteel a ton also. Been making continuous loops, whoopie slings, ucr's, dogbones, soft shackles. But all of this for hammocking, where I am 2 ft off the ground. I've also seen soft shackles come undone when unweighted and a person goes to sit in their hammock and hit's the deck. But once you start using it for life support that changes everything for me and I naturally become a bit skeptical. I am also glad Tethrd did some testing. I'm going to splice some up and test it at ground level but I am definitely going to wait for Tethrd to release their DIY video before making my way up the tree.
 

Gator

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SH Member
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
405
Location
Virginia
I use 7/64” on my sticks and platforms. I would NOT use it on something that keeps me connected to the tree. 1/8” gives another 1000 pounds of strength, 5/32” gives another 2500.
3/16” another 4000 pounds of strength vs 7/64”
Even if it takes 6 feet of 3/16” to make the loop, it will weigh less than an ounce.
I’m not suggesting that you wouldn’t have a backup like has been being discussed above somehow connecting tag in back to the linesman loops or something.
I’m guessing the smaller size makes it harder to adjust

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Bwhana

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2017
Messages
1,399
Location
Hickory, NC
I worked with Amsteel a lot, but using it as a prussic is new territory for me and I think most people. I’m messing around with different configurations, but I think we all need to very cautious before we take any of this airborne. There just isn’t a ton of info out there about using Amsteel on Amsteel like this. I’m glad a Tethrd did some testing, but that also worry that someone who has very little experience with saddles and/or splicing is going to make a catastrophic mistake.
Please guys, test this stuff on the ground and if you have any doubt, post your strategy on here and get some feedback.
Or even better, wait for Greg to make his DIY video. He could have put some magic trick on the splice that we have all overlooked.
This also sounds like a case for some zingit or similar small rope for insurance stitches.
 

cspot

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
200
I use 7/64” on my sticks and platforms. I would NOT use it on something that keeps me connected to the tree. 1/8” gives another 1000 pounds of strength, 5/32” gives another 2500.
3/16” another 4000 pounds of strength vs 7/64”
Even if it takes 6 feet of 3/16” to make the loop, it will weigh less than an ounce.
I agree. I did 7/64 daisy chains on my sticks and 1/8 on my platform. I wanted a little more on the platform.
 

Razorbak66

Member
SH Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2019
Messages
95
Unless i miss it but is the prussic fed inside the braid like the bridge part?..i got my bridge done and did a continuous loop to make my prussic and seems to hold but some of the doubled is in the loop and some not doubled as well?
 

Razorbak66

Member
SH Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2019
Messages
95
Looks like i might have found my awnser..it is a full bury continous loop..gonna try that today on my next one
 

SemperFlightMedic

Active Member
SH Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
181
Glad to see everyone tackling this mod but please guys be careful. We thoroughly tested the sizes we are using but did not go smaller. I just want everyone to be safe.


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Pffft. Size doesn’t matter. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.


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Ontariofarmer

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
3,692
Glad to see everyone tackling this mod but please guys be careful. We thoroughly tested the sizes we are using but did not go smaller. I just want everyone to be safe.


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Thanks for the warning


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skyjacker

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2018
Messages
590
Location
Oklahoma
Glad to see everyone tackling this mod but please guys be careful. We thoroughly tested the sizes we are using but did not go smaller. I just want everyone to be safe.


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Can you give us the continuous loop length and the total amount of bury on both sides. We know the continuous loop is 3/16 Amsteel. May clear up some confusion and keep some folks a little safer.
 

always89y

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2019
Messages
566
Do we know if the 3/16 amsteel prussik is a full bury, or just a regular continuous loop?
 

SemperFlightMedic

Active Member
SH Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
181
did you by chanc
Unfortunately I didn’t. I used the leftover amsteel from the original bridge for the mantis. I have some 3/16” amsteel on order, and when it arrives I’ll take this one off and make one out of 3/16”. I’ll make it a skosh shorter this one though. This isn’t a full bury either. It’s maybe 75% buried on each side I did this so that the amsteel is smaller where it connects to the saddle loops so that I get some bite on girth hitch.

If you can find out the length of the mantis bridge, that should give you a good starting point


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spear0

Active Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2018
Messages
191
Location
Alabama


Did this with a full bury on both. Works great but finding the sweet spot for the prusik length is a challenge. You have to have enough slack to girth hitch but then you get too much slack and it moves your connection point away from the loop. This isn’t really an issue but I’m picky and don’t want that prusik to cause a pinch on the biner when trying to get a shot at an extreme angle (which seams to happen more times that not). This is a double overhand stopper knott on the end. I wasnt able to get it to budge with 220# on it.



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AKMonkey

New Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2019
Messages
35


Did this with a full bury on both. Works great but finding the sweet spot for the prusik length is a challenge. You have to have enough slack to girth hitch but then you get too much slack and it moves your connection point away from the loop. This isn’t really an issue but I’m picky and don’t want that prusik to cause a pinch on the biner when trying to get a shot at an extreme angle (which seams to happen more times that not). This is a double overhand stopper knott on the end. I wasnt able to get it to budge with 220# on it.



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Thanks for posting this. Did you use 3/16 Amsteel for the Prussik, and how long a piece did you start with?

As for the stopper knot, I am more concerned that it will loosen with time, vibration, and jostling (that has happened to me).. The spliced eye beyond your knot may help to keep it from coming undone, but I wonder if a stopper knot inside that eye would be more secure.
 
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