swampsnyper
Well-Known Member
I got some b55 string material. Come to the house this weekend and I’ll make you another string to pop. I want to see a pic of an arrow in that door!!! Lol
This is just a guess, but it seems to me that string grooves would "soften" the edge of the string nocks a little. A string groove basically extends the string nocks down into the belly. There would be less of a sharp transition for the string to travel over.I'm curious about this. How does a string groove help reduce string wear?
I don’t shoot inside the house, and I’m even getting a little nervous now practicing drawing… have a perfect 1/4” deep imprint of a Stan Perfex in the drywall.I’m just glad someone else shoots in the house. I made a thread about an easy way to paper tune, and all I got were comments about how dumb I am for shooting in my house.
heathens!
I would probably throw out the first string failure since it was an old string. Both were flemish and both occured where the flemish ends end so it is hard to rule it out completely though.I can buy that I guess. I have heard different bowyers talk about stability offered by string grooves, just never heard anyone mention reducing wear, especially to the point of causing repeated string failures in a years time.
I would probably throw out the first string failure since it was an old string. Both were flemish and both occured where the flemish ends end so it is hard to rule it out completely though.
Didn't actually break on the loops?? Then it almost has to be from an outside factor...mice or other abrasive/sharp contact with the string.I would probably throw out the first string failure since it was an old string. Both were flemish and both occured where the flemish ends end so it is hard to rule it out completely though.
Did you see the pic I posted in the first post. It broke where the string transitions from the thick part to the regular string part. By thick part I mean the part of the string thats "doubled over" itself to make the loop. You know how the strings are cut at different lengths so that the thick part tapers? Right past where the taper ends is where the break occurred.Didn't actually break on the loops?? Then it almost has to be from an outside factor...mice or other abrasive/sharp contact with the string.
So maybe not ideal for your tree-huggin wingspan?Here is another hypothesis I am working on. The old Wing archey catalogs recommend the below brace height. If I was below that brace height by an inch or two that could cause the string to impact the bow at a different location and therefore cause it to wear more. What do yall think?
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I did wonder about that a little earlier while I was reading thru the other posts. If your brace is 2 inches too low, I would imagine that it would really be hard to tune an arrow and would generally shoot pretty crappy.Here is another hypothesis I am working on. The old Wing archey catalogs recommend the below brace height. If I was below that brace height by an inch or two that could cause the string to impact the bow at a different location and therefore cause it to wear more. What do yall think?
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Generally speaking yea I think a longer bow would suite a taller person but that's not what I was trying to say in that last post. I set the brace height to what sounded, felt, and shot best. It was a litter shorter than the original catalog recommended fist melee which means the strings would not contact the grooves in the same way. With a higher brace height,like recommended, less string should be touching the limbs. That's why I thought it may be an contributing issue. Doesn't really have anything to do with my wingspan. If I didn't have it braced high enough maybe the string was hitting in the flat spot instead of the groove since the groove only goes down so far.So maybe not ideal for your tree-huggin wingspan?
I did quickly glance at your earlier pics but I didn't have my cheater glasses so I couldn't really scrutinize it very well.Did you see the pic I posted in the first post. It broke where the string transitions from the thick part to the regular string part. By thick part I mean the part of the string thats "doubled over" itself to make the loop. You know how the strings are cut at different lengths so that the thick part tapers? Right past where the taper ends is where the break occurred.
This boot shoots really well and the arrows tune very easily when I add or take off weight in the correct direction.I did wonder about that a little earlier while I was reading thru the other posts. If your brace is 2 inches too low, I would imagine that it would really be hard to tune an arrow and would generally shoot pretty crappy.
So where on that bow is the brace height measured? Depth of the handle or back of the riser at the shelf?Generally speaking yea I think a longer bow would suite a taller person but that's not what I was trying to say in that last post. I set the brace height to what sounded, felt, and shot best. It was a litter shorter than the original catalog recommended fist melee which means the strings would not contact the grooves in the same way. With a higher brace height,like recommended, less string should be touching the limbs. That's why I thought it may be an contributing issue. Doesn't really have anything to do with my wingspan. If I didn't have it braced high enough maybe the string was hitting in the flat spot instead of the groove since the groove only goes down so far.
Ah sorry. Wrong translation of "fistmele"Generally speaking yea I think a longer bow would suite a taller person but that's not what I was trying to say in that last post. I set the brace height to what sounded, felt, and shot best. It was a litter shorter than the original catalog recommended fist melee which means the strings would not contact the grooves in the same way. With a higher brace height,like recommended, less string should be touching the limbs. That's why I thought it may be an contributing issue. Doesn't really have anything to do with my wingspan. If I didn't have it braced high enough maybe the string was hitting in the flat spot instead of the groove since the groove only goes down so far.
Here is another hypothesis I am working on. The old Wing archey catalogs recommend the below brace height. If I was below that brace height by an inch or two that could cause the string to impact the bow at a different location and therefore cause it to wear more. What do yall think?
View attachment 49778
Reading through this today, the brace height was the first thing I thought of, since it would be slapping the belly of the limbs symmetrically. Also, wasn't this the bow you just refinished? several thousand shots over a year, with you twisting the string here and there to tune it on the semi rough surface with that older, worn out finish could probably go a long way to wearing out the string where its striking the limb. Especially if its a string that is joined at that specific spot.Here is another hypothesis I am working on. The old Wing archey catalogs recommend the below brace height. If I was below that brace height by an inch or two that could cause the string to impact the bow at a different location and therefore cause it to wear more. What do yall think?
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Yea, so that is my hypothesis for now. I don't remember what my brace height was but I remember it being slightly under. I'll set it to the recommended value and see where we are at once I get a new string.I would definitely increase the brace height to what is recommended. I have a Shakespeare Super Necedah from about that same time frame. It's only 54" but handles my 29" draw just fine. The recommended brace height on it is also around 9". You may find your bow shoots even better when you increase the brace height. It could be part of your problem and explain why your string is contacting below the string grooves