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Well that was close (bowstring broke) round 2

I'm curious about this. How does a string groove help reduce string wear?
This is just a guess, but it seems to me that string grooves would "soften" the edge of the string nocks a little. A string groove basically extends the string nocks down into the belly. There would be less of a sharp transition for the string to travel over.
Maybe take a fine file (like a chainsaw file) or sand paper around the nocks where the string lays. Don't go crazy, but just soften the edges of the nocks a little.

My bet is the stinking' mice chewed it. I despise them.
 
I’m just glad someone else shoots in the house. I made a thread about an easy way to paper tune, and all I got were comments about how dumb I am for shooting in my house.

heathens!
I don’t shoot inside the house, and I’m even getting a little nervous now practicing drawing… have a perfect 1/4” deep imprint of a Stan Perfex in the drywall.
 
I can buy that I guess. I have heard different bowyers talk about stability offered by string grooves, just never heard anyone mention reducing wear, especially to the point of causing repeated string failures in a years time.
I would probably throw out the first string failure since it was an old string. Both were flemish and both occured where the flemish ends end so it is hard to rule it out completely though.
 
I would probably throw out the first string failure since it was an old string. Both were flemish and both occured where the flemish ends end so it is hard to rule it out completely though.

Your likely not going to figure it out until you put another string on it and keep an eye on what happens as you shoot.
 
I would probably throw out the first string failure since it was an old string. Both were flemish and both occured where the flemish ends end so it is hard to rule it out completely though.
Didn't actually break on the loops?? Then it almost has to be from an outside factor...mice or other abrasive/sharp contact with the string.
 
Didn't actually break on the loops?? Then it almost has to be from an outside factor...mice or other abrasive/sharp contact with the string.
Did you see the pic I posted in the first post. It broke where the string transitions from the thick part to the regular string part. By thick part I mean the part of the string thats "doubled over" itself to make the loop. You know how the strings are cut at different lengths so that the thick part tapers? Right past where the taper ends is where the break occurred.
 
The grooves need to be widen some and deeper slightly should be able to shoot either Flemish or endless out of that old bow. How long are grooves?
 
Here is another hypothesis I am working on. The old Wing archey catalogs recommend the below brace height. If I was below that brace height by an inch or two that could cause the string to impact the bow at a different location and therefore cause it to wear more. What do yall think?

1626980395463.png
 
Here is another hypothesis I am working on. The old Wing archey catalogs recommend the below brace height. If I was below that brace height by an inch or two that could cause the string to impact the bow at a different location and therefore cause it to wear more. What do yall think?

View attachment 49778
So maybe not ideal for your tree-huggin wingspan?
 
Here is another hypothesis I am working on. The old Wing archey catalogs recommend the below brace height. If I was below that brace height by an inch or two that could cause the string to impact the bow at a different location and therefore cause it to wear more. What do yall think?

View attachment 49778
I did wonder about that a little earlier while I was reading thru the other posts. If your brace is 2 inches too low, I would imagine that it would really be hard to tune an arrow and would generally shoot pretty crappy.
 
So maybe not ideal for your tree-huggin wingspan?
Generally speaking yea I think a longer bow would suite a taller person but that's not what I was trying to say in that last post. I set the brace height to what sounded, felt, and shot best. It was a litter shorter than the original catalog recommended fist melee which means the strings would not contact the grooves in the same way. With a higher brace height,like recommended, less string should be touching the limbs. That's why I thought it may be an contributing issue. Doesn't really have anything to do with my wingspan. If I didn't have it braced high enough maybe the string was hitting in the flat spot instead of the groove since the groove only goes down so far.
 
Did you see the pic I posted in the first post. It broke where the string transitions from the thick part to the regular string part. By thick part I mean the part of the string thats "doubled over" itself to make the loop. You know how the strings are cut at different lengths so that the thick part tapers? Right past where the taper ends is where the break occurred.
I did quickly glance at your earlier pics but I didn't have my cheater glasses so I couldn't really scrutinize it very well.
 
I did wonder about that a little earlier while I was reading thru the other posts. If your brace is 2 inches too low, I would imagine that it would really be hard to tune an arrow and would generally shoot pretty crappy.
This boot shoots really well and the arrows tune very easily when I add or take off weight in the correct direction.
 
Generally speaking yea I think a longer bow would suite a taller person but that's not what I was trying to say in that last post. I set the brace height to what sounded, felt, and shot best. It was a litter shorter than the original catalog recommended fist melee which means the strings would not contact the grooves in the same way. With a higher brace height,like recommended, less string should be touching the limbs. That's why I thought it may be an contributing issue. Doesn't really have anything to do with my wingspan. If I didn't have it braced high enough maybe the string was hitting in the flat spot instead of the groove since the groove only goes down so far.
So where on that bow is the brace height measured? Depth of the handle or back of the riser at the shelf?
I've seen them measured in both places. I prefer back of the riser at the shelf which, on my bow, is about 3/4" shorter than measuring it at the grip.
 
Generally speaking yea I think a longer bow would suite a taller person but that's not what I was trying to say in that last post. I set the brace height to what sounded, felt, and shot best. It was a litter shorter than the original catalog recommended fist melee which means the strings would not contact the grooves in the same way. With a higher brace height,like recommended, less string should be touching the limbs. That's why I thought it may be an contributing issue. Doesn't really have anything to do with my wingspan. If I didn't have it braced high enough maybe the string was hitting in the flat spot instead of the groove since the groove only goes down so far.
Ah sorry. Wrong translation of "fistmele" :tearsofjoy:
 
Here is another hypothesis I am working on. The old Wing archey catalogs recommend the below brace height. If I was below that brace height by an inch or two that could cause the string to impact the bow at a different location and therefore cause it to wear more. What do yall think?

View attachment 49778

I would definitely increase the brace height to what is recommended. I have a Shakespeare Super Necedah from about that same time frame. It's only 54" but handles my 29" draw just fine. The recommended brace height on it is also around 9". You may find your bow shoots even better when you increase the brace height. It could be part of your problem and explain why your string is contacting below the string grooves
 
Here is another hypothesis I am working on. The old Wing archey catalogs recommend the below brace height. If I was below that brace height by an inch or two that could cause the string to impact the bow at a different location and therefore cause it to wear more. What do yall think?

View attachment 49778
Reading through this today, the brace height was the first thing I thought of, since it would be slapping the belly of the limbs symmetrically. Also, wasn't this the bow you just refinished? several thousand shots over a year, with you twisting the string here and there to tune it on the semi rough surface with that older, worn out finish could probably go a long way to wearing out the string where its striking the limb. Especially if its a string that is joined at that specific spot.
 
I would definitely increase the brace height to what is recommended. I have a Shakespeare Super Necedah from about that same time frame. It's only 54" but handles my 29" draw just fine. The recommended brace height on it is also around 9". You may find your bow shoots even better when you increase the brace height. It could be part of your problem and explain why your string is contacting below the string grooves
Yea, so that is my hypothesis for now. I don't remember what my brace height was but I remember it being slightly under. I'll set it to the recommended value and see where we are at once I get a new string.
 
@BravoHunter I think I saw in another thread that you are shooting a Red Wing Hunter too. Have you ever had issues with the string breaking like described in this thread. What brace height do you have on your bow? Thanks!
 
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