• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Upgrade your Tethrd Mantis into a Tethrd Phantom (Amsteel prussik bridge)

PJC said:
Make a continuous loop first while capturing the bridge loop. Then wrap around the end of your bridge to form a prusik.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks, if you see my post above you’ll see I was able to figure this out. Of course tying that prusik under those conditions takes a little thinking for my non-mechanical mind. Before this, I’d only ever tied them when I had the whole thing free.
 
arm breaker said:
Thanks, if you see my post above you’ll see I was able to figure this out. Of course tying that prusik under those conditions takes a little thinking for my non-mechanical mind. Before this, I’d only ever tied them when I had the whole thing free.
Click to expand...

I haven’t read the whole thread yet. I only knew how to do it because I saw a video on how to do it. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
SecretAgentMan said:
So, I’ve tinkered with this. My problem has been being able to do a full length bury on the looped side. I’ve done locked splices with Amsteel before but never tried to bury something as long as the length of the bridge and then some. Always done 1/4” with electrical wire.
Still no luck, but I’m chewing up the rope in the process which me no likey.
Click to expand...

Some are using an arrow. Otherwise you bury a foot at a time You don’t have to bury the full length all at once.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
JumpingVampire said:
couldn't one just add a continuous loop with a prussic knot on the stock bridge on the mantis already. Be easier that way you know what I'm saying
Click to expand...

You certainly could, but the full bury gives the rope a lot more thickness and ridgity, which in turn makes the prusik work much better and (likely) safer. It would just collapse the bridge rope without that.
 
Looking at the mantis you would have enough thickness on the bridge. Tethrd guys buried my tag end pretty far up the center of the bridge
 
JumpingVampire said:
Looking at the mantis you would have enough thickness on the bridge. Tethrd guys buried my tag end pretty far up the center of the lbridge
Click to expand...

Yeah, but it also tapers towards the middle. I’m sure it would work well enough but I’m also quite shocked in the difference between the two since I have them both on together for the moment. Feeling the difference in stiffness and “purchase” you gain (as @g2outdoors said in a recent video) makes me much prefer the full bury over the original. It’s also worth adding that to get the maximum benefit and adjustability, you really need more length than the original comes with.
 
Last edited:
arm breaker said:
Looks great. Did you do a girth hitch and soft shackle to make it detachable?
Click to expand...

Detaching wasn’t my first consideration for the girth hitch application, but now that you mention that, it is certainly a benefit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
SemperFlightMedic said:
Did some more tinkering. Full length bury from the spliced eye end that’s girth hitched to the left side of the saddle. The bury terminates after the stopper knot and meets the bury of the spliced eye that holds the soft shackle. Both ends are tapered and laid together. Rope is smooth overtop of the the bury- a total accident on my part, but it makes it feel like it’s a solid rope underneath without a soft spot.

The frustrating part is, as I’ve been trying out different lengths of continuous loop 3/16” amsteel Prussiks, I didn’t write down the dimensions of this one, which turned out to be exactly how I wanted it. I did at least remember the lengths of yet 1/4” bridge though. My previous attempts worked fine, but left it a touch too short to flip over my neck for wearing it in or out to the tree. This one is just right. And forth girth hitching the Prussik, having the spliced eye on the end makes it much easier to pull through the pre-formed Prussik after you remove whatever you used for tying the Prussik.

Not sure if anyone else has noticed this, but the 1/4” amsteel blue that’s coated black has a firmer texture than the stuff that’s coated silver. The firmness of it works well silver coated Prussik. Gives it a really good bite.


20822c89c54258f6a68f363638d82542.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Why a spliced eye on the end and a stopper knot?
 
Gator said:
My point is wouldn't the spliced eye and soft shackle act as a stopper, making the actual knot redundant?
Click to expand...

It would, I suppose. But the knot also covers the spot where the two buried ends meet. While they do overlap and make it smooth, it’s still a softer spot than the rest of the bury.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Decided to give this another try. Shorten it up and make it a little neater. I bought an 8”, 1/8” Amsteel continuous loop from Dutchware to use. Hitch is an asymmetrical Schwabisch with 3 over 1 turns. Those continuous loops aren’t buried the full length of the loop, so you have a 2-3” section of rope with no bury in it. I used this part to girth hitch around the bridge loop. The hitch bites right about where the rope diameter changes at the end of each bury.

I will say, though, that with 8” of loop, this sucker is tight. Didn’t think I’d ever get it put together. A 9” would be about perfect, in my opinion. I used a cap from my kids’ thin coloring markers to make the turns around. Then, took the bridge and crammed it into the end of the marker lid to feed it through. My bridge isnt buried maybe the last 18”, so getting the end fed through the hitch was fairly easy. Still have to put an Estar stopper on the end.

Any of you rope and climbing savvy folks see any issue with this setup? A lot of the comments and instructions I saw on the Schwabisch is that it is typically tied with a split tail rope with loops on each end instead of a loop like a classic Prusik.483B95F6-B90F-4F27-B3C8-2EA4B4F230C4.jpeg

I will say, though, that with 8” of loop, this sucker is tight. Didn’t think I’d ever get it put together. A 9” would be about perfect, in my opinion. I used a cap from my kids’ thin coloring markers to make the turns around. Then, took the bridge and crammed it into the end of the marker lid to feed it through. My bridge isnt buried maybe the last 18”, so getting the end fed through the hitch was fairly easy. Still have to put an Estar stopper on the end.
 
It's not that hard you make a locked brumel on the first end bury the full length of your bridge make a continuous loop with full length bury on both ends then loop the bridge 3x through the inside of the continuous loop pass to through and dress do the same thing on the other side of the continuous loop and tie a stopper knot and you're done literally the exact same thing they are doing
 
Hardwood reaper said:
It's not that hard you make a locked brumel on the first end bury the full length of your bridge make a continuous loop with full length bury on both ends then loop the bridge 3x through the inside of the continuous loop pass to through and dress do the same thing on the other side of the continuous loop and tie a stopper knot and you're done literally the exact same thing they are doing
Click to expand...
There’s got to be a period or comma in there somewhere.:tearsofjoy:
 
SecretAgentMan said:
There’s got to be a period or comma in there somewhere.:tearsofjoy:
Click to expand...
Relax man I'm posting in a forum from my cell phone not trying to write "the grapes of wrath" here either way I have the bridge on my saddle already while you're trying to figure out how to read this
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top