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Upgrade your Tethrd Mantis into a Tethrd Phantom (Amsteel prussik bridge)

Here is a better job of the comfort channels. I used my own hypothesis and folded 1" webbing in half and stitched it closed, then attached it to the saddle loops with three channels.

Tested it literally hanging on the saddle like a swing using a pullup bar, (no platform) and worked as expected.

It seems the channels do not need to be incredibly solid, they just need to have enough support to guide your bridge until your saddle loops have understood the weight is going in that direction, once the bridge settles in the channel it does not put stress on your comfort channels.

The webbing method takes a considerably less amount of time if you do pursue this; as of now, this is the method I would recommend.

IMG-2719.jpg


To those caught up in the prussik continual loop; my assumption would be you could just do a locked brummel and bury both ends in each direction.

To me, the double fisherman's loop is sufficient and I will not be attempting that. Amsteel bites very hard into itself as its a hollow core; burning the ends provides there is no possibility they will slip through.

Being that 3/16 amsteel is so small the knot is not noticeable either.

3/16 amsteel is rated at a min strength of 4,900 pounds; assuming you tie the knot correctly you're still clearing well over 3000 lbs. There is a 100% chance your platform breaks before the knot does.

The fishermans knot purposely slips into another knot, there really isn't a possibility it slips out. Keep in mind Double fishermans knots are standard for tested and authorized linemans belts, and are used by arborists who put much more load on their gear than leaning off a tree at 25 feet.

IMG-2720.jpg
 
Here is a better job of the comfort channels. I used my own hypothesis and folded 1" webbing in half and stitched it closed, then attached it to the saddle loops with three channels.

Tested it literally hanging on the saddle like a swing using a pullup bar, (no platform) and worked as expected.

It seems the channels do not need to be incredibly solid, they just need to have enough support to guide your bridge until your saddle loops have understood the weight is going in that direction, once the bridge settles in the channel it does not put stress on your comfort channels.

The webbing method takes a considerably less amount of time if you do pursue this; as of now, this is the method I would recommend.

View attachment 23755


To those caught up in the prussik continual loop; my assumption would be you could just do a locked brummel and bury both ends in each direction.

To me, the double fisherman's loop is sufficient and I will not be attempting that. Amsteel bites very hard into itself as its a hollow core; burning the ends provides there is no possibility they will slip through.

Being that 3/16 amsteel is so small the knot is not noticeable either.

3/16 amsteel is rated at a min strength of 4,900 pounds; assuming you tie the knot correctly you're still clearing well over 3000 lbs. There is a 100% chance your platform breaks before the knot does.

The fishermans knot purposely slips into another knot, there really isn't a possibility it slips out. Keep in mind Double fishermans knots are standard for tested and authorized linemans belts, and are used by arborists who put much more load on their gear than leaning off a tree at 25 feet.

View attachment 23756
This is all looking good! On the prusik, isn’t there something up with Amsteel being not rated for knots?
 
Y’all must simply love burying amsteel. Me? I would tie off a length of Oplux on one side, tie a sterling 6mm loop on the other bridge loop, form my prussic, run the Oplux through it and tie a stopper knot. Done. Easy peasy.
 
If you've already got the big bulky jx3, why bother? I'm sure the adjustment would be a benefit but there are easier options. Oplux Rope or webbing isn't that much more weight either
Yea, just don’t really like the length of current bridge. May try the webbing and triglides. I like running webbing through. ‘Biner better anyway
 
Y’all must simply love burying amsteel. Me? I would tie off a length of Oplux on one side, tie a sterling 6mm loop on the other bridge loop, form my prussic, run the Oplux through it and tie a stopper knot. Done. Easy peasy.


Amsteel is lighter, stronger, and slides better in a carabiner; spliced loops also take up a considerably less amount of space than knots. I spliced both ends of my saddle in about 5 minutes. Amsteel is incredibly easy to splice. My 24 strand tether and lineman's belt, on the other hand, was a bitch.
 
For the sake of do it once do it right; here we are ..

Locked brummel buried into itself twice.


View attachment 23759

How long was your piece of 3/16” to start with?

How important is the bury length when you use a locked Brummell? I think I did an 8” bury on my climbing stick rope mods with a locked Brummel spliced eye.
 
How long was your piece of 3/16” to start with?

How important is the bury length when you use a locked Brummell? I think I did an 8” bury on my climbing stick rope mods with a locked Brummel spliced eye.


Probably around 2 feet. I couldn't say how strong an inch of bury is related to strength. I would say that a 4 inch bury is probably stronger than any knot you can tie with amsteel.

On a standard splice, you bury one end 8 inches, on my continual loop you bury two ends 4 inches. We're dealing with such strong material that as I said earlier; your platform is much more likely to fail than your rope.
 
Here is my version. I don’t like a super long bridge, so I started with 7’ of 1/4” and buried it almost all the way(about 6” left at the end for the stopper knot and the backup soft shackle).

I used 48” of 3/16” for the prussic and did 11” buries on each side. I wanted to be able to girth hitch the prussic and the other side of the bridge in order to lock in my position (kind of a poor man’s comfort channel).

I spiced a 1/8” soft shackle through the end of the bridge and connected it back to my right side lineman’s loops as a backup.

I’m also going to run a second fixed webbing bridge at least until I have throughly tested the Amsteel.

2d64969382e611df4c0fc0e607708a9c.jpg
39dedc3d4de562c3376b1680e7277957.jpg
 
Here is my version. I don’t like a super long bridge, so I started with 7’ of 1/4” and buried it almost all the way(about 6” left at the end for the stopper knot and the backup soft shackle).

I used 48” of 3/16” for the prussic and did 11” buries on each side. I wanted to be able to girth hitch the prussic and the other side of the bridge in order to lock in my position (kind of a poor man’s comfort channel).

I spiced a 1/8” soft shackle through the end of the bridge and connected it back to my right side lineman’s loops as a backup.

I’m also going to run a second fixed webbing bridge at least until I have throughly tested the Amsteel.

2d64969382e611df4c0fc0e607708a9c.jpg
39dedc3d4de562c3376b1680e7277957.jpg


Look good man! Interesting idea with the girth hitch.

My last idea for the comfort channels is using the nylon ball bearing someone linked earlier and 2 inch of tubular webbing folded. Stitching the webbing to your bridge loops and putting the ball bearings inside the webbing; stitching a seam between each ball...Kind of silly but another method could be using bouncy balls or something similar instead of ball bearings. Just need something consistent, circular and relatively strong.

This version looks the closest to the tethrd's comfort channels.

If I'm going to attempt this I will need to find my sewing machine as there's no way I'm doing that by hand lol.
 
This guy seems to be aimed at selling kits. I’m not totally sure about that or profiting from the name of the bridge Tethrd is patenting but I’ll say it’s nice to see the prusik tie in action:

 
So, I’ve tinkered with this. My problem has been being able to do a full length bury on the looped side. I’ve done locked splices with Amsteel before but never tried to bury something as long as the length of the bridge and then some. Always done 1/4” with electrical wire.
Still no luck, but I’m chewing up the rope in the process which me no likey.
 
So, I’ve tinkered with this. My problem has been being able to do a full length bury on the looped side. I’ve done locked splices with Amsteel before but never tried to bury something as long as the length of the bridge and then some. Always done 1/4” with electrical wire.
Still no luck, but I’m chewing up the rope in the process which me no likey.

I wonder how a regular ole fish tape would work?
 
I wonder how a regular ole fish tape would work?
I’ve got a nice, 5’ fiberglass fish lying around somewhere. Hadn’t thought of that. Should be about perfect diameter for 1/4”. Getting it attached to the loose end that’s getting buried and then getting that initially started is being problematic too. I’ve tried taping it but that just adds to the diameter and winds up wadded up anyway.
 
So, I’ve tinkered with this. My problem has been being able to do a full length bury on the looped side. I’ve done locked splices with Amsteel before but never tried to bury something as long as the length of the bridge and then some. Always done 1/4” with electrical wire.
Still no luck, but I’m chewing up the rope in the process which me no likey.

I used 16 gauge copper wire doubled over. I started with about a 6’ piece. No problems at all.
 
I would like to see a amsteel and oplux comparison... done up similar. Weight and in compacted form. I was going to make an adjustable bridge from oplux but the amsteel has peeked my interest a bit.
 
I used 16 gauge copper wire doubled over. I started with about a 6’ piece. No problems at all.
I did finally manage to get it. Once I got it started. Went with some 18 ga wee doubled over and initially couldn’t get it. Went in single, threaded into hollow “pull through end”. Couple dabs of super glue to hold it while I pulled, and some tape to get the end to a nice point. Curses were muttered...

edit: “Wire”, not “wee”. I’d like to think it’s closer to 16 ga
 
I think the advantage of the amsteel over the oplux is the lack of knots.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
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