Upgrade your Tethrd Mantis into a Tethrd Phantom (Amsteel prussik bridge)

[Bowhunter05]

Here is a better job of the comfort channels. I used my own hypothesis and folded 1" webbing in half and stitched it closed, then attached it to the saddle loops with three channels.

Tested it literally hanging on the saddle like a swing using a pullup bar, (no platform) and worked as expected.

It seems the channels do not need to be incredibly solid, they just need to have enough support to guide your bridge until your saddle loops have understood the weight is going in that direction, once the bridge settles in the channel it does not put stress on your comfort channels.

The webbing method takes a considerably less amount of time if you do pursue this; as of now, this is the method I would recommend.

View attachment 23755


To those caught up in the prussik continual loop; my assumption would be you could just do a locked brummel and bury both ends in each direction.

To me, the double fisherman's loop is sufficient and I will not be attempting that. Amsteel bites very hard into itself as its a hollow core; burning the ends provides there is no possibility they will slip through.

Being that 3/16 amsteel is so small the knot is not noticeable either.

3/16 amsteel is rated at a min strength of 4,900 pounds; assuming you tie the knot correctly you're still clearing well over 3000 lbs. There is a 100% chance your platform breaks before the knot does.

The fishermans knot purposely slips into another knot, there really isn't a possibility it slips out. Keep in mind Double fishermans knots are standard for tested and authorized linemans belts, and are used by arborists who put much more load on their gear than leaning off a tree at 25 feet.

View attachment 23756

Here’s my attempt if I knew my sewing machine could handle going though the bridge loop I would have sewn it instead of using zip ties tubular webbing with 4 marbles

 

[Bowhunter05]

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[stone1]

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The ball method works, Look good man!

I've actually redone mine with balls and used a sewing awl to stitch it. Just be careful with your amsteel and snagging it on zip-ties.

If you haven't already, you may want to take some sandpaper to the cut ends of your zip ties just to ensure it doesn't snug a amsteel strand.

 

[arm breaker]

At long last I was able to finish my DIY adjustable bridge modeled from the utilibridge. Overall I’m happy with it and it works very smoothly. Now I just need to cut the old fixed bridge off.

 

[SecretAgentMan]

I finished mine up tonight as well. You can see that the original bridge is still on there. May leave it. After several attempts and getting pissy trying to make a continuous loop out of the 3/16 Amsteel, I gave it up and just tied it off with a triple fisherman. If that knot looks iffy or I just don’t like it, I may just buy a loop and girth hitch it on in the future.

Bridge is 1/4” Amsteel and buried about 4’ with another 10” past that with an Estar stopper on the end. Used one of @DanO ’s prusik tenders. Idk how well that’ll work on the bridge loop. Not all that necessary, as the prusik is easy enough to slide. Prusik has 4 turns.

 

[arm breaker]

I finished mine up tonight as well. You can see that the original bridge is still on there. May leave it. After several attempts and getting pissy trying to make a continuous loop out of the 3/16 Amsteel, I gave it up and just tied it off with a triple fisherman. If that knot looks iffy or I just don’t like it, I may just buy a loop and girth hitch it on in the future.

Bridge is 1/4” Amsteel and buried about 4’ with another 10” past that with an Estar stopper on the end. Used one of @DanO ’s prusik tenders. Idk how well that’ll work on the bridge loop. Not all that necessary, as the prusik is easy enough to slide. Prusik has 4 turns.

I ended up with the full bury on the 1/4” bridge. I was also able to make the full Buried continuous loop (with a locked brummell) out of the 3/16” and honestly that was one of the easier parts for me. I do have a good splicing set though. I had more trouble with the full bury on the 1/4”. I ended up having to scratch my head more than I probably should when it came to tying the prusik at the end. It’s a counter-intuitive route to get there once it’s looped through the bridge loop, at least for me anyway.

 

[arm breaker]

Also, I love the orange! That makes it look all the cooler.

 

[SecretAgentMan]

Also, I love the orange! That makes it look all the cooler.

Yeah, I had trouble with the long bury on the 1/4” too. I’m sure I would’ve gotten the 3/16” loop done with the right tools. Floral wire and electrical wire is kinda tedious. I got one side done, but couldnt ever the the other buried. Oh well. I trust my knot and I’ll test it at GL of course. I had spliced some 7/64” awhile back making daisy chains for my sticks, so I know I can do it. Patience meter must be low tonight. Yeah, thanks on the orange. I wanted something that would stick out a little that I’d pay attention too more, perhaps.
If you got a hankering to make a few more loops and wanted to send one my way, I’d gladly throw you some George Washingtons.

 

[Fishuntbike]

Mine is done as well

 

[arm breaker]

Mine is done as well View attachment 24114

That looks very cleanly done. Did you do a locked brummel on the fixed end? If so, I’d like some of your magic on how clean and uniform that end looks.

 

[Fishuntbike]

Yeah it’s locked Brummel and I did bury the end with double overhand knot

 

[Squirrels]

That looks very cleanly done. Did you do a locked brummel on the fixed end? If so, I’d like some of your magic on how clean and uniform that end looks.

Looks like he just buried the tail into itself to me, from the stopper knot back.

 

[Pooh]

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Here's a paracord whipping knot that works the same as a ball. Make sure your knot is tight and they hold well

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[arm breaker]

Yeah it’s locked Brummel and I did bury the end with double overhand knot

Man that’s an impressive job then for keeping it clean.

 

[SecretAgentMan]

Man that’s an impressive job then for keeping it clean.

It is. On my locked end, the bury starts a good half inch from the nearest lock, making it possible to make a bit of a loop when unloaded. Cant imagine that’s safe. I’ve got to fix and redo or maybe tape around that to prevent it from snagging on something and ripping my bury out. I don’t know that that could easily happen but seems like a possibility. I guess regardless, the locks are still in place.

 

[tylerray378]

Here's a paracord whipping knot that works the same as a ball. Make sure your knot is tight and they hold well

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Have you tested the paracord part yet?

 

[Pooh]

Have you tested the paracord part yet?

I hung for a few minutes in the garage. They didn't move. I haven't yet put a ton of time on them as snow moving and work is getting in my way. I may need to figure out a way to hang in my house for testing. Once tied I can't get them to move by hand on the bridge loops but the knot I put on the bridge I can move, it moves hard, but it moves.

 

[SemperFlightMedic]

Did some more tinkering. Full length bury from the spliced eye end that’s girth hitched to the left side of the saddle. The bury terminates after the stopper knot and meets the bury of the spliced eye that holds the soft shackle. Both ends are tapered and laid together. Rope is smooth overtop of the the bury- a total accident on my part, but it makes it feel like it’s a solid rope underneath without a soft spot.

The frustrating part is, as I’ve been trying out different lengths of continuous loop 3/16” amsteel Prussiks, I didn’t write down the dimensions of this one, which turned out to be exactly how I wanted it. I did at least remember the lengths of yet 1/4” bridge though. My previous attempts worked fine, but left it a touch too short to flip over my neck for wearing it in or out to the tree. This one is just right. And forth girth hitching the Prussik, having the spliced eye on the end makes it much easier to pull through the pre-formed Prussik after you remove whatever you used for tying the Prussik.

Not sure if anyone else has noticed this, but the 1/4” amsteel blue that’s coated black has a firmer texture than the stuff that’s coated silver. The firmness of it works well silver coated Prussik. Gives it a really good bite.

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[arm breaker]

Did some more tinkering. Full length bury from the spliced eye end that’s girth hitched to the left side of the saddle. The bury terminates after the stopper knot and meets the bury of the spliced eye that holds the soft shackle. Both ends are tapered and laid together. Rope is smooth overtop of the the bury- a total accident on my part, but it makes it feel like it’s a solid rope underneath without a soft spot.

The frustrating part is, as I’ve been trying out different lengths of continuous loop 3/16” amsteel Prussiks, I didn’t write down the dimensions of this one, which turned out to be exactly how I wanted it. I did at least remember the lengths of yet 1/4” bridge though. My previous attempts worked fine, but left it a touch too short to flip over my neck for wearing it in or out to the tree. This one is just right. And forth girth hitching the Prussik, having the spliced eye on the end makes it much easier to pull through the pre-formed Prussik after you remove whatever you used for tying the Prussik.

Not sure if anyone else has noticed this, but the 1/4” amsteel blue that’s coated black has a firmer texture than the stuff that’s coated silver. The firmness of it works well silver coated Prussik. Gives it a really good bite.

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Looks great. Did you do a girth hitch and soft shackle to make it detachable?

 

[PJC]

So looking at this, would you need to loop thorough the bridge, make the prusik wraps, then join via splice in the end? That seems really hard to pull off for a continuous loop. I guess you could also make the wraps and then join at the end through the loop but it doesn’t seem any easier.
View attachment 23742

Make a continuous loop first while capturing the bridge loop. Then wrap around the end of your bridge to form a prusik.


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